While watching the morning news this morning, I saw the commercial for Pet Armour, the flea and tick preventative that “has the same active ingredients found in Frontline, at half the cost”. Now, I don’t know about you, but when I hear some one comparing their product to another one, that tells me the other product has a known name, has been around for a long time, and is probably their biggest competitor. If I owned Frontline, I’d be calling up the Pet Armour people and thanking them for all the great advertising. The Frontline name gets used over and over again.  Being in the pet industry, I’ve had first hand experience with both products and I would choose Frontline anyway, because I know it works better, is easier to handle, is less greasy, has less volume, and less odor.  There’s probably something to that old adage, “you get what you pay for”.

Personally, I don’t use any flea or tick preventative products on my own dogs. We live in an older neighborhood with an acre of land. It is mown grass in the yard, cement and rocks around the pool, and a center island with trees and bushes. Our dogs do occasionally bring in a tick or two, but considering there are six dogs, we have minimal problems. Our cats, on the other hand, bring in all kinds of baby ticks, mostly around their face and eyes. Those little guys are hard to find and hard to remove. So, I’ve broken down and applied Frontline.

For the past few weeksHueand I have been tromping through lots of farmland in our search for a new farm or property for horses. We are becoming experts at rating properties on their tick counts. One property resulted in dozens of hitch hikers on us and we sat in the realtor’s office pulling off ticks while having a conversation. (Can’t imagine what the realtor was thinking). We race for home after these hikes and can’t wait to do the search to get the dumb ticks off. Clothes go into a scalding hot wash and we go for the hot shower. For Hue, this process isn’t so bad because he has a shaved head. I, on the other hand, have a mess of long, curly, coarse hair. Every time I get the smallest tingle on my scalp I think there must be a tick and it makes me nuts. I have been threatening to put Frontline on my head, but so far, I’ve avoided it. Anyone got any ideas?

We previously covered vaccinations in dogs, so now we turn to cats.  The biggest differentiation for cats is whether they go outside or live inside.  Kittens receive immunity from the mother cat that lasts for 6 to 10 weeks, so they should receive vaccines sometime between 8 and 16 weeks of age. Usually kittens receive a series of two vaccines.

Cats can have allergic reactions to vaccines, just as dogs may. A severe reaction will cause facial swelling, vomiting and diarrhea, and may cause trouble breathing.  If this occurs, it is an emergency.

Indoor cats should receive kitten vaccines for panleukopenia (distemper), rhinotracheitis (herpes virus), and calicivirus. This is given in one vaccine called the FVRCP in two doses about four weeks apart. These initial vaccines may last years. We recommend doing a blood test or titer at the annual exam to determine if the cat is still protected or if a booster vaccine needs to be given.

Rabies vaccines should be given to any cat that goes outside, has any chance of escaping to the outside, or there is any chance for wildlife to get into your home.  The first vaccine will be good for one year and any vaccine given after that will be good for three years.  Rabies vaccines have been associated with vaccine related tumors of the skin and muscle. We routinely give them low on the right hind leg. If you notice a lump in that area, have it checked out!

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Feline leukemia virus is spread through contact with infected cats. Outdoor cats that may come into contact with wild or sick cats should receive this vaccine. It is an annual vaccine. It is unknown if it protects the cat for longer than one year.  Indoor cats should not receive this vaccine.

FIV or Feline Immunodeficiency Virus vaccine should never be given.  Giving the vaccine will always make your cat test positive for the virus. This virus is only spread by bite wounds and it is questionable whether the vaccine gives any protection.

Chlamydia and Bordetella vaccines are not recommended. These are treatable upper respiratory diseases of cats that are not generally life threatening.

FIP or Feline Infectious Peritonitis vaccine should not be given to any cats.  It is questionable whether it gives any protection, cannot be used in young kittens, and immunity (if any) is short lived.

Personally, my cats are mostly unvaccinated. They get Rabies vaccines if they go outside. They had FVRCP as kittens and get titers annually. They live in a quiet neighborhood of healthy cats and do not get vaccinated for leukemia.  If I lived in a rural area with unhealthy feral cats, I would vaccinate for leukemia, but probably not every year.

Talk to your veterinarian about your cat’s lifestyle and make an educated decision on what should be given. Don’t just settle for having every vaccine given to your cat. Vaccines should be spread out and not given all together, if at all possible. This could require multiple trips to the office, which can be no fun with a cat, but it is the best treatment.  Cats with cancer or autoimmune disease should not be vaccinated with anything.

Surgery days are always fun for me. I really enjoy surgery. Way back in veterinary school I used to think it was a bit daunting, but working for ten years in emergency medicine where I was the only doctor available at two a.m., I learned to love it. The years spent in the emergency room taught me how to think on my feet and react to whatever was thrown at me. It was there that I took out my first kidney, did my first gastric torsion (bloat) surgery, did my first foreign body removal and intestinal anastamosis (putting two ends of the bowel back together), and repaired all kinds of traumatic wounds.  Now that I am in general practice, surgeries are much more routine, but still enjoyable.

For the owner of the pet having surgery, the day is usually a bit more stressful. Owners worry about what is happening, how their beloved pet will react, and how much pain will be involved. So, let’s walk through the surgery day to help you feel better!

Pets need to be fasted for about 12 hours prior to surgery. The drugs used for anesthesia can make them vomit and we don’t want them to aspirate (inhale) any stomach contents. When your pet is admitted in the morning you will fill out a lot of paperwork to make sure we understand all your instructions. Questions about additional procedures (nail trim, shave mats, take off a couple skin tags) will be asked. It’s much easier to do some of those things while they are sleeping!

After the paperwork, your pet will have blood drawn for pre-operative testing if it hasn’t been done prior to surgery day. We need to know how the liver and kidneys are functioning so we can tailor the anesthesia to the pet’s condition.  We check clotting profiles to make sure there won’t be any bleeding issues. An EKG will be run and evaluated to make sure there are no heart problems that can be detected.  If your pet is having a tumor removed, we may xray the chest to make sure there has been no detectable spread of the tumor prior to surgery.  While the tests are being run, your pet will be made comfortable in a cage or holding area with blankets to snuggle.  Some even like to snuggle with large stuffed animals.

If everything checks out and your pet is safe to be anesthetized, an intravenous catheter will be placed and hooked up to a bag of intravenous fluids.  The fluids are run through a pump to make sure your pet receives the correct amount of fluids.  The fluids help maintain blood pressure in the correct range during surgery and replace fluids that your pet is not allowed to drink for 24 hours.  The catheter is also used to inject the medications that will induce anesthesia. Once the pet is sleeping, a tube is placed in the trachea (windpipe) and hooked to a gas anesthesia machine. We use pediatric gas anesthesia which is very safe and can easily be adjusted up or down to keep the pet at the right level of sleepiness. A blood pressure cuff, EKG monitor, and oxygen monitor are attached to monitor the vital signs of the pet. Pain medications are given by injection to keep the pet as pain-free as possible.

The area where the incision will be made is shaved, vacuumed, scrubbed with antibacterial soap, and sprayed with antibacterial spray. Surgery is performed by the doctor and the technician monitors the anesthesia, keeping close track of any changes in vital signs. Once surgery is completed, the animal is given oxygen through the endotracheal tube for a few minutes to help cleanse the system. After that, the pet is moved back to their blanket to wake up under the watchful eye of the doctor and technician. The tube is pulled from the throat once the pet is able to swallow and is breathing well on their own.  Usually, within an hour the pet is sitting up, standing, and wobbly on their feet.

Before being discharged in the evening, incisions are checked for swelling, redness, or bleeding. The incision area is cleaned and the pet is checked over for any signs of a problem. Pain medications are sent home with your pet to keep them as comfortable as possible during the healing phase after surgery.  Our goal is to make the procedure as pain-free and pleasant as we can.

Your job at home is to keep your pet as quiet as possible for a few days, using a leash when outside. We ask that you check the incision area and notify us if there is any swelling or redness or if your pet is licking the area. If your pet will not leave the area alone, an “E” collar (cone) will be fitted to your pet. Campho Phenique mouth medicine is available over the counter for people and can be painted around an incision in a pinch to keep the pet away from the area. You can also try putting a tee shirt on the animal if that will cover the incision. Do not try to bandage an area, as that may be damaging to the wound.  Call any time you have a question!

Sutures are usually removed 8 to 10 days after surgery. Biopsies usually take 5 to 7 days to come back.

Anyone who knows me well knows that I hate cold weather.  So, seeing the news reports of an October Nor’easter bringing snow before Halloween, naturally made me a bit crabby.  I finally had to turn on the heat in the house and add blankets to the beds.

When we awoke this morning, covered as usual with the six spaniels that sleep in our bed, we heard the sound of pounding rain. Hue was nice enough to tramp downstairs with the pack of spaniels, opening the back door for the herd to exit. They ran out, as usual, only to hit the brakes within five strides. Hue, being the wise one, had closed the door quickly enough to keep dogs outside.  He left them outside while he made coffee, then realized when he opened the door to let them in, they had gone no further than the steps by the door.  He nicely brought me coffee in bed, along with six wet spaniels who wanted to snuggle.   What a wonderful way to start the day – wet dog smell times six in your bed. 

So, after coffee and news, we headed back down to feed the crowd breakfast. Knowing they would have to go out at some point, I had the bright idea to dress them all in raincoats and put them out again after breakfast. It only took fifteen minutes to dress seven dogs. They were jumping and barking, thinking we were taking them somewhere for an outing. (Yes, we are crazy people who dress up our dogs and they have an incredible wardrobe!) 

Once they were dressed, we tried to send them back outside.  Apparently, dogs are pretty smart, because they wanted no part of it. (Later on I had the bright thought that perhaps adding boots so their feet wouldn’t get wet might help. Oh yeah, 28 boots to put on.) We had to physically pick them up and place them outside.  Now we have wet people. This is going well……

We glanced out the window after getting them all outside, and, here’s a shock….they were standing on the deck looking miserable.  So, still no toilet activities occurring. After five minutes, we gave up. Seven wet dogs came back in, shed their coats, and begged for treats.  Today is a good example of why we have no carpets. Only hardwood, tile and laminate. Going to be a long day of cleanup, but, really, who can blame them?

When I decided I wanted to be a veterinarian, many moons ago, I never really thought about owning my own practice (or two). In veterinary school they taught us a ton about all the different species of animals, but there was never any mention of how to run a business. Hey, we all just wanted to help animals be healthy.

So, here I am, 27 years later, trying to run a business.  It was easy being a practice owner at first, because I was a minority partner and my partner handled all the business aspects of the practice. When I bought the entire practice in 2007, I had no clue what I was doing. I just paid the bills and tried to keep the staff and clients happy, having no idea there were so many government agencies, insurances of twenty different types, rules and regulations to follow, etc, etc, etc. By 2008, I realized I had no clue what I was doing from a business standpoint. Rude awakening.

As luck would have it, I was approached by a management consultant (do these guys have some inside track that tells them who needs help or do they just get lucky?). I was so shell-shocked at all the redtape involved with running the business, I figured I had better hire them. We still use the same consultants and they have helped us over lots of hurdles. I discovered I needed a new accountant, as well, when I found out how many different taxes and fees have to be paid to different governmental agencies. It sure is better to plan ahead than to be hit with a big bill and no way to take care of it.

So, two weekends ago, I decided to take Kathy (my Office Manager) to hear another business manager speak about running the perfect practice. We are always trying to improve our service and hoped he would have some new explosive piece of advice for us. Sadly, he didn’t have anything new that our first consultants had not already taught us. It was more a sales pitch for his incredibly expensive training in pain management for chiropractors. Now I see why he’s worth millions – charge people a ton of money to sit through lectures and follow that with another ton of money to learn his techniques through a ten-course series, each costing thousands, followed by advanced courses for thousands more. Unfortunately, these kinds of seminars occur way too often. Sort of reminded me of listening to a time share pitch (and how many of us got sucked into those?).

Anyway, what I did learn, is that our most important asset is our clients. We love our clients and want to take incredible care of them, and their pets. I am going to make a huge effort to really offer stellar service and the first thing we are going to tackle is waiting times. I realize everyone has too much to do and can’t afford to spend hours in our office. So next time you have to wait, let me know. Help us fix anything that bothers you. Help us to offer better service.

And, yes, we do want you to send your friends with their pets. Help us turn them on to a different kind of veterinary medicine, where it’s more about good food and good health, and less about pills and vaccinations and chemicals. 

 - Dr. Judy Morgan, DVM, Owner and Head Veterinarian at Clayton/Churchtown Vet

While winging our way across the country on a Frontier airline jet with Kathy and Hue, I asked for suggestions for blog ideas. Hue said, tongue in cheek, “why dogs and cats hate each other”. Well, I want to know who started that rumor. In our house we have 7 dogs and 5 cats (and, no, that does not constitute hoarding; just an amazing love for the little creatures that are incredibly well cared for and rule the house). Anyway, there is definitely no hating going on in our house.   In fact, it’s pretty much the opposite.

As many folks know, we have been rescuing and fostering Cavalier King Charles Spaniels for the past 5 years. Along the way, quite a few have stayed with us, resulting in us owning 5 dogs. Add to that my son’s cocker spaniel that came with him when he moved in and we hit 6. Then there’s my daughter’s cavalier that moved in with us when she went off to college, and we have 7.  The cats started with two barn cats that came with me when I sold my farm.  One hates to be inside and she spends most of her time outside or in the garage curled on soft blankets.  Last summer we raised two orphan kitten litters from birth and failed to find homes for all of them, resulting in three kittens staying permanently, bringing us to 5 cats.

The best thing about raising 3 kittens with 5 spaniels is that they don’t know they are cats. They were raised with spaniels, and they think they are spaniels. We have renamed them “spats”, as in spaniel cats. They like to eat with the dogs and love the dogs’ raw meat food. They sleep curled up with the dogs in the dog crates and dog beds. They run in and out of the house with the pack of spaniels. They line up at the fence and peer out to see who is coming up the driveway. They play fetch and chase with the dogs, sometimes with the cats in front and sometimes with the cats chasing the dogs.

But the best is the odd couple of George and Eggplant. Eggie is MADLY in love with George. She follows him everywhere, sleeps on him, grooms him, kneads his back, and acts like an adoring girl in the shadow of a rockstar. George puts on the “poor me” face, but seems to enjoy every minute of it.

So don’t believe the old rumor of cats and dogs not getting along. In reality, they may be best friends.

 - Dr. Judy Morgan, DVM, Owner and Head Veterinarian at Clayton/Churchtown Vet

I was following a feed on Facebook the other day where some friends were complaining that is so expensive to get a pet from a rescue and they couldn’t understand how the rescue organizations could charge so much. They seemed to feel the rescue centers should be paying them to adopt the pets and give them a good home. So, it seems to me, there is some misunderstanding out there.

Let’s look at the purchase of a purebred dog from a breeder or pet store. I’ll use Cavalier Spaniels as an example, since I am familiar with the breed. If you want to purchase a cavalier from a reputable breeder, you can expect to pay anywhere from $1500 to $3000. If you decide to purchase from a pet store, you will pay anywhere from $700 to $1200. If you decide to bypass the pet store and go directly to the puppy mill to buy a puppy, you may be able to get one for $500 or less. Once you own the puppy, you have only just begun. There’s the series of puppy vaccinations, deworming, heartworm testing and prevention, spay or neuter, and treatment for any defects like skin disease, hernias, dental care,  luxating patellas (bad knees, common in the breed), heart certification (bad hearts, common in the breed). Total up all that, and you have easily spent another $1000 to $2000.

On the other hand, you look up a cavalier rescue organization on the internet and find out it will cost $500 to rescue a dog. You probably won’t be able to get a puppy through a rescue, but you will get a dog that has been spayed or neutered, is up to date on vaccines, laboratory testing, heartworm and fecal testing, is free of parasites, has had dental care, and any heart or knee problems have been discovered and treated if possible. AND, you get to feel great because you gave a home to a dog someone else couldn’t keep or didn’t want.

BUT, make sure you are adopting through a good rescue organization. I recently treated a Dachshund that came through a “rescue” for $300. The dog was supposed to be young and in good health. He was actually over 10 years old, in heart failure, and had rotten decaying teeth. Many dogs are being brought up from the south and are carrying heartworms, fleas, ticks, and intestinal parasites.

Most good rescue organizations spend a lot more on the care of the pets than they charge for the adoption fee. They rely heavily on donations and fundraising activities. I adopted my first spaniel for $400 and they gave me medical records showing over $2,000 spent on medical care to save her life. I think I got a bargain, and a best friend for life.

Do your research. Find a good rescue organization. Donate your time or money to help where you can. Adopt if you can. Support spay and neuter. And if you must buy from a breeder, make sure they are reputable. Don’t believe a glossy website. Go meet them in person. Meet the parents of the puppy and evaluate their temperament and health. Make sure the puppy is free of any defects or potentially longterm health problems.  Once you get them, have them seen by your veterinarian as soon as possible.

 - Dr. Judy Morgan, DVM, Owner and Head Veterinarian at Clayton/Churchtown Vet

Some time ago, a client approached me and told me he heard it was impossible to get an appointment with me because I only worked one day a week.  I wasn’t sure whether to laugh, cry, or scream. You see, it may seem that I am never available, if you need me right at that moment. The real truth, however, is that a normal work week for me spans a minimum of 50 to 60 hours or more. The week starts around 7:00 am on Monday, ending around 4 pm on Friday, with a weekend event thrown in for good measure.

So, I thought I’d discuss a typical day. Thursdays are always a big day, so we’ll use that schedule.

I awake to 6 barking, scratching, restless spaniels moving around the bed and licking my face to get me up around 6 am.  Scrambling to jump up and get them down the stairs without any accidents along the way (you know, urine, poo, me or Hue falling down the stairs in our dementia), we chase 4 cats down the stairs as we head for the back door and flip on the outside lights. If it’s raining, we have to push everyone out the door. Otherwise, it’s a stampede. I feed cats while Hue makes coffee, the gift from the gods. Then back upstairs for the morning ritual, back down to feed the starving herd. If we can spare the time, we take a 3 or 4 mile walk, but that’s an added bonus.

Then it’s off to the office to check email, read the mail, and check on any lab work or messages that came in overnight. At 8 am, the doctors meet to discuss cases, new protocols, and issues that have come up. By 9:00, the first patients are waiting in exam rooms. The technicians are busy admitting patients for surgery later in the day and the receptionist is manning three phone lines single-handedly, while welcoming clients as they arrive. Two doctors start seeing appointments and work diligently for the next 3 to 4 hours, handling a new case every 20 minutes. While seeing appointments, the doctors also have to approve any medication requests, answer any phone questions presented by the staff, and handle any emergencies that may come in unexpectedly.

By 1:00, the patients awaiting surgery have finished their pre-op preparations like EKG’s, IV catheters and fluids, pre-op blood work, and anesthetic calculations. Surgery cases become priority for the next few hours, but there are still prescriptions to fill, emergencies to handle, and clients to call. Surgeries may be routine or complicated, but each is handled like one of our own pets.

By 3:00, the afternoon outpatient appointments begin to arrive. Again, the staff works hard, trying to stay on schedule until appointments end at 7:00. But who can predict the dog hit by a car, the broken leg that needs x-rays and splinting, the dog that ate all the Halloween candy, or the cat with pneumonia? Anything out of the ordinary takes more time and we get behind. Usually, by 8:00, the last client has left the building. The doctors gather charts, notes, and lab reports, and try to find a spot to get things organized. Receptionists close out the books, and the technicians start the long cleaning process. By 9:00, the job is done, the building is clean, and we all head out, vowing to return in 10 short hours.

You might have noticed, I didn’t mention lunch. We used to have a lunchroom with a table, but it never got used. If we are lucky, we have sandwiches delivered and eat while working. Otherwise, I’m REALLY happy to get home at 9:30, where Hue usually has a phenomenal meal ready, with my much desired martini. And 6 spaniels full of hugs and kisses.

   - Dr. Judy Morgan, DVM, Owner and Head Veterinarian at Clayton/Churchtown Vet

Some days are harder than others. Most days are just very busy and very satisfying, knowing that I have helped so many pets and their owners. But others leave me feeling sad and thoughtful. When I graduated from veterinary school, I spent less than two years at my first job. My next job lasted close to five years. Then I did relief work for a few years (think substitute teacher, but as a veterinarian) and I worked at a local emergency service for ten years. While all those positions were challenging, they also allowed me to practice veterinary medicine without developing deep attachments to clients and pets.

Since I became an owner at Clayton Veterinary Associates in 1994, I have stayed in the same place for almost two decades. In that time, I have become very attached to clients and developed many long-lasting friendships, both in and out of the office. I have come to love these pets as if they were my own, watching them grow from something that fits in the palm of your hand, to mature, graying, old friends. In their senior years I watch owners carry them, clean up after them,  and care for them as the family members they have become.   I give every option I have to keep them comfortable and keep them from suffering. But we all know, at some time, we have to make a choice.

The choice to allow a beloved pet to die of natural causes or to help them along in their time of need is a very personal one. I have always tried to be honest with my clients when I think the time has come. I have also turned away clients that want to euthanize a pet that is still basically healthy but has developed some old-age behavior issues that seem to be too much work. If I lose the client and save the pet or at least make the client think twice about a life, it’s okay with me.

But today was a hard day.  I lost a dear friend, Murray, that I have known for a lifetime. His mom went to the ends of the earth for him and had to make a very hard decision. I try to maintain my professional attitude, but sometimes I just have to let the tears flow and cry along with everyone else. For all the Murrays that have and will touch my life, I thank you for teaching me and being a part of the happiness and sorrow we all experience. You will be missed by many.

   - Dr. Judy Morgan, DVM, Owner and Head Veterinarian at Clayton/Churchtown Vet

Oral disease is the No. 1 health problem diagnosed in dogs and cats. Pets don’t get cavities like humans do. Rather, they get a buildup of tartar that, in time, leads to infection, gingivitis and eventually, periodontal disease. The good news is that dental disease in your pets can be prevented.

About Oral Disease:

Food particles and bacteria deposit along your pet’s gum line and cause plaque. If the plaque isn’t removed in three to five days, it hardens into tartar, which strongly adheres to your pet’s teeth and gums. This, in turn, can lead to painful inflammation and bad breath.

If the tartar is not removed, it accumulates under your pet’s gums, and can lead to periodontal disease, which is very painful. Periodontal disease can cause loose teeth, abscesses, bone loss or infection. In the worst cases, the infection gets into the bloodstream and can cause infection of your pet’s heart valves, liver or kidneys. At this point, your pet would need emergency veterinary care.

Symptoms to watch for:

Your pet may be suffering from dental disease if it exhibits any of the following signs:

• foul breath;
• change in eating habits;
• excessive drooling;
• dropping food out of the mouth when eating;
• unexplained weigh loss;
• rubbing face on the ground or pawing at the face;
• avoidance of chewing; or
• growling, squirming or whining when the mouth or head is touched.

Prevention tips:

Just as you brush your teeth daily, you should do the same for your pet. Brushing its teeth once a day is very important preventative measure for oral disease, wrote Holly Nash, a veterinarian who writes columns for PetEducation.com.

But don’t use human toothbrushes and pastes. Pet toothbrushes are smaller than the human variety; they have ultra-soft bristles and are shaped for an animal’s mouth. Sponges and pads also are available to use if your pet won’t tolerate brushing at first. Understand, however, that it’s the mechanical action of brushing that’s most important to your pet’s dental health. So eventually, you’ll have to train your pet to accept the brush.

Pet toothpastes come in animal-yummy flavors such as tuna or poultry. Again, don’t use human toothpastes, as it can upset your pet’s stomach. “Pet toothpastes may contain several different active ingredients,” wrote Nash in her article “Brushing Teeth & Home Dental Care,” posted on the PetEducation.com website. “Various veterinary dentists have recommended toothpastes, gels and rinses that contain chlorhexidine, hexametaphosphate or zinc gluconate. For cats with periodontal disease, fluoride treatments or toothpastes may be prescribed by your veterinarian.” She cautioned that human fluoride treatments should never be given to animals.

(*Courtesy of the Philadelphia Inquirer, Tuesday August, 9th 2011 Issue)